Paris, Hôtel Meurice, from our fashion correspondent Harald Nicolas Stazol

Leggins under shorts, capes over draped broad sholders, german militaristic music – has Givenchy gone mad? All in black of course, and note those boots-stockings-near-pantys in blue sequins, and buy them and wonder, why your girlfriend thinks you are suddenly gay and your boss at work

has such a fit of laughter that he falls from his chair.

There exist some patchworks that can be so wellcut that  they are intellectual and dialectical like Comme des Garcons´s suits-comme-vests, or how to put it faute-de-mieux. but somehow it looks cheap. i don´t know what to make of it. AND NOTE THE HAT!

And then Raf Simons. When I met him in Luzern after he had received a price and i already owned two jackets and one suit by him, I really was taken by his genial, quiet and restrained character during the dinner in Luzern´s casino. He declined to join me at roulette and was sensible enough to keep his snippets of speech short and impressing. He had just been rescued by the swiss price-money from financial ruin. And I got an incling of his creative force. Little did I know that he would present the best show so far in Paris this season. Now this…

is a suit. It seems so easy to do but in men´s fashion is the most difficult to achieve. „Viele fühlen sich berufen, doch wenige sind auserwählt“ (Matthäus 20, 16) as we say in german (you don´t have to know what this means, just learn it by heart and mumble periodically, preferably in first row at Calvin Klein, you´ll be surprised, what effect this will have, even with a strong accent, but this is an aside: for many be called, but few chosen. …). These pencil trousers, so pleated as to cut a slice of a loaf of bread, so easy flowing that you don´t want to change out of it. Were I already master of my familiy´s fortune, this is were my money would go, buying the whole collection on the spot. Fuck the crisis!

As the venerable Suzy Menkes analyzes in today´s International Herald Tribune, there seems to be a shift from Capitalism to Communism in men´s fashion, a notion I can´t quite follow, but perhaps you can.

One name one should surely keep in mind for his sheer elegance is Mihara Yasuhiro (of the label – guess? – Miharayasuhiro), someone i clearly had not on my radar, quite unpardonnably and inexplicably, as he has had a long collaboration with Puma, it seems. Well, even the most fashion-savy is not always up-to-date, though few would admit it, and so at least I was in for a more-than-pleasant surprise, that perhaps most-precious of moments in our fleeting fashionista-existence. But have a peek for yourself:

Now, that´s Men´s Fashion!!!

Well, and last not least, l´enfant terrible eternel, John Galliano:

That can be men´s fashion, too.

tomorrows schedule, the last day of paris:

Sunday, January, the 25th
U-NI-TY, LANVIN, WOOYOUNGMI, MASATOMO, DIOR HOMME, PAUL SMITH, WALTER VAN BEIRENDONCK, AGNÈS B., JULIUS, ROMAIN KREMER, DUNHILL, GARETH PUGH
keep you posted, on to New York…
all pictures wwd.com